Richmond Camera's Photo Tips

2012-02-08T09:40:00.000-08:00

Understanding F/Stop Calculations

If you’re someone who wouldn’t know the difference between an f/stop and a bus stop, worry not, because it is a concept that stumps many starting shutterbugs. The reality of photography is that it includes a fair amount of mathematics, an aspect that can be both interesting and confusing. Let us help clarify the concept so you can better enjoy playing with your DSLR by getting out of auto mode.

The f/stop is known by several other names including the relative aperture, the f/number and the focal ratio (f/ratio). Essentially, the number is calculated by dividing the focal length of the lens by the aperture diameter. Adjusting by one full stop will either allow in half or double the amount of light.

The standard scale of full f/stop range is as follows:

1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22

The f/1.4 setting lets in the most amount of light and f/22 lets in the least amount of light.

The focal length of a lens is defined in millimeters. For example, if you’re using a 50mm lens, f/2 is designating that the diameter of the aperture is 25mm, (50 divided by 25 equals 2.)

Understanding the basic numeric structure of f-stops will further strengthen your ability to make adjustments based upon available light. Take your camera outside and start playing with this concept and you’ll quickly see the relationship between the numbers and the results you record.

Indoor Portrait Tip

2011-12-05T08:06:00.000-08:00

Indoor Portrait Tip Shooting indoors often means the addition of flash as many homes don’t have enough available light to properly brighten the subject, especially when darkness falls. If you need to brighten your subject but worry about the harshness a direct flash can create, consider tilting the flash so that it ‘bounces’ off the upper portion of a wall or the ceiling. It will create a more diffused effect and provide softer lighting as a result. This particular technique is often used by professional photographers in a variety of situations such as wedding receptions with low-light challenges, and the end result is often far more attractive than using straight-on flash. Try it this holiday season and let us know how it worked for you!

2011-10-17T13:21:00.000-07:00

Sports Shot Tip

When we think of shooting sports, one of the most important skills is the ability to capture the action in a variety of situations and conditions. A tripod is a great partner in helping keep your gear steady so that sharp images are the end result. However, there isn’t always room for a tripod, especially when the prime picture-taking territory is crammed with other shutterbugs vying for the same space. However, a monopod is a great alternative for providing stability in tight situations.

Also, try bumping up your ISO to freeze sports action. This technique often works in low-light conditions but some pros also shoot at a high ISO even when they have favorable light available. Today’s digital cameras are far more powerful than previous generations, so experiment with ratcheting up your ISO higher than normal and evaluate the results. You may end up with the best action shots of the season!

2011-08-15T07:33:00.000-07:00

Understanding ISO
The digital photography terrain is paved with acronyms, and one of the most important ones to understand is known as ISO. What’s interesting is that ISO isn’t an acronym, really--it was created by the International Organization for Standardization to refer to sensitivity of film to light. The term (or acronym) ISO replaced the film equivalent term ASA (American Standards Association). In the days of shooting film, you would purchase film according to its ASA, and this would indicate how sensitive the film would be to light. “Faster film” meant it was more sensitive to light; “slow film” meant less sensitivity to light.

So, how does this translate today? If we aren’t shooting film, why do we need to worry about ISO?
Well, ISO is one of the key components in creating a properly exposed image. ISO in today’s technology refers to the camera sensor’s sensitivity to light. Photographers will often bump up the ISO in situations such as low light conditions or in circumstances where shutter speed has already been decreased as much as possible. By increasing our ISO setting, we are increasing our camera sensor’s sensitivity to light. As you increase the ISO, less light is needed for the shot. Each time you double the ISO, it equates to needing only half the amount of light to create the same exposure.

One challenge of shooting at higher ISO settings is that of ‘noise.’ The term ‘noise’ refers to the stray speckles than can be created in an image. In the film equivalent, noise was referred to as film grain. You may not always notice image noise and it may not become apparent until you enlarge an image considerably, but image noise can detract from a quality image in that the photo will look more grainy and speckled. Smaller compact cameras are often more prone to image noise; some cameras can start showing evidence of noise at an ISO of 400 and above. This is due to the fact that a compact model camera’s sensor is much smaller than one used in a DSLR, and a smaller sensor means increased sensitivity at lower ISO numbers.

Some of today’s high end DSLR cameras offer ISO ranges from 100-6,400, which can then be further expanded higher due to mathematical algorithms. And some of these cameras can shoot at these high ISOs with minimal noise. If such a camera isn’t in your budget, simply practicing varying the ISO settings in different conditions is the best method for helping you understand the relationship between ISO, shutter speed and aperture.

Learning to adjust ISO in various lighting conditions is an important cornerstone in advancing your shooting skills. It’s also a great opportunity to get more comfortable with your camera’s more advanced settings.

2011-07-27T06:45:00.000-07:00

Capturing the Essence of Action

When it comes to photography techniques, capturing the essence of action through blurred motion is one of the most popular--and sometimes difficult--skills to master. Many professional shooters will tell you that an element of luck often plays a role, but there are a few techniques you can keep tucked in your toolbox when the opportunity arises:

Take a Tripod: A tripod is one of the most useful accessories a photographer (of any skill level) can own. When it comes to providing stability for shots, a tripod will quickly become your best friend. A tripod can be particularly useful when trying to shoot action and when you’re using a longer lens.

Focus on the Face: A more advanced technique you can try is to focus on your subject’s face while in motion. The idea is to have the facial features remain sharp while allowing the rest of the body (and vehicle, if applicable) to appear more blurred. Just keep in mind that you may have to experiment with shutter speed and that the proper setting depends on what you’re shooting and the speed at which it’s moving.

Figure in the Flash: Using a flash is used more often to freeze motion as opposed to creating a blurred effect, but you can still compose an image of movement using this method. Using a flash will allow you to shoot at a higher shutter speed than you would otherwise use, but again, the overall effect you will create will likely be different than blurred motion. A quality flash can help you take your shooting to the next level.

Shooting blurred motion shots may require some experimentation on your part. Use your children running, cars driving by and other objects moving as opportunities to experiment with your settings. Over time, you’ll become more comfortable with what works and what doesn’t and will be able to shoot more intuitively. Yes, this technique takes practice but the results can be immensely rewarding.

2011-06-24T14:05:00.001-07:00

Experiment with the Rule of Thirds

It’s one of the most basic rules of photography composition--the Rule of Thirds--and its merits can be seen in countless professional photographs and paintings. To understand the Rule of Thirds, visualize two vertical lines and two horizontal lines dividing your image into nine equal squares. You then place your key subjects and points of interest along these lines. They will ‘rest’ where the lines intersect--in the crosshairs.

To better understand this concept, take a few of your photos and imagine the nine squares atop the image. Where are your primary items of interest? Choose a few of your favorite photos, the ones that really speak to you, and try the same thing. You may be surprised at how often the Rule of Thirds is at play in your favorite images.

Most camera manufacturers offer a virtual screen overlay that can divide your viewfinder into the Rule of Thirds format and this may help you get used to seeing your images in this way. You may prefer not to use this guide, but if it is available on your camera and you are new to the concept, try it and see just how different your images appear after experimenting. Think about where you want the eye to be drawn and use this guide to help you create that dramatic event.

2011-06-01T06:51:00.000-07:00

Summer Stretches of Light:

One of the many beauties of summer includes the promise of longer days, and these time changes in sunrise and sunset can impact your photography. If shooting sunrises tops your list, be prepared to get up earlier! Also, certain areas with extremely hot weather will mean an increased intensity of sunlight fairly early in the morning.

If possible, skip the midday sun as it can often be harsh and may wash out vivid colors. Because the evenings arrive later in the summer, you have more time to prepare your dusk shots. Feel free to start shooting a bit earlier than usual and see how the changing shadows and colors affect your photography.

Experimenting with sunrise and sunset shooting can be one of the most satisfying and interesting aspects of vacation photography. Taking into account the local landscape, unique architecture and weather patterns can combine into creating a series of images that move friends and family and possibly even inspire them to visit the locale themselves!

2011-05-19T09:15:00.000-07:00

Take a Tripod Along

Professional photographers understand the value of a quality tripod, and this accessory help improve your photography by stabilizing your camera and minimizing the camera shake so commonly found in contributing to those blurry photographs. A tripod is particularly helpful if you have to shoot at low shutter speeds.

Here are a few to consider:

http://www.richmondcamera.com/Vanguard-Tripods-and-Heads-s/85.htm

2011-04-21T07:43:00.000-07:00

How-To Read a Digital Histogram
Your digital camera has a simple but powerful tool that can help you evaluate the exposure of your images. It’s called a histogram, and it’s essentially a representation of the contrast and dynamic range in each image. A histogram shows the content of each exposure typically using a range from 0 (true black) to 255 (true white). You’ll find the ‘true white’ illustrated at the far right of the graph and the ‘true black’ on the far left. A well-exposed image will show points close to both ends. If a histogram is abruptly cropped on one end, this usually indicates that your image is under or over-exposed.
Each histogram image tells a story about the exposure of the image and can help guide you in making adjustments so that future images are properly exposed.

2011-03-01T14:19:00.000-08:00

Weekend Warrior: Take a Quick Photo Road Trip

Have you ever thought about taking a Saturday (or Sunday) off from chores, errands and other weekend commitments to spend a day following your photographic passion? With spring knocking on the door, it’s time to seize the opportunity to get out and explore your locales. It doesn’t have to be elaborate or a far-flung destination; even the neighboring town can be a grand adventure.

Here’s a quick guide to help you plan your weekend getaway.

The Photo Day Tripper’s Checklist:

Write down the names of a few towns that are only 30 minutes to a couple hours away from where you live. Decide which one holds the most interest.
After choosing a town, do an online search for interesting facts about the town-- a city park, an iconic building, an upcoming festival or unique wildlife.
Choose a date for the safari--it can even be this weekend! Just make sure to clear your calendar--and don’t accept new appointments. You can, however, invite another shutterbug to travel with you!
Prepare all your gear including charging your camera batteries, format memory cards (and pack extras), include a lens cleaning kit (here are a few items to consider: http://www.richmondcamera.com/Camera-Care-s/7.htm) and tripod in your camera bag. Also bring your external flash and extra lenses if you have them. And don’t forget your charging cable (or dock) and your camera’s manual!
Pack extra water bottles and snacks in your car in case you end up staying in one location longer than you expected. You don’t want low-blood sugar to distract you or pull you away from your location too soon.

We often talk about wanting to spend time experimenting with our craft but we also realize that everyday life can get in the way of even the best intentions. An impromptu photo getaway can give you the mental space and some uninterrupted time to explore a new location and experiment with your unique viewpoint.

Pick a place, pick a date, grab your gear and hit the road!

2011-02-02T07:12:00.000-08:00

Sport Shooting Technique: Zone Focusing
The concept of zone focusing is commonly used in street photography whereby the photographer sets his DOF (depth of field) for a specific area and waits for the subject to enter the frame. This technique is also used in sports photography and can help you position yourself to capture the action when it hits.

You will need to shoot in manual or AP (aperture priority) mode. Estimate the number of feet from the camera that you expect the subject to be and then use the smallest aperture available for that distance. You may need to experiment to find the correct setting, but keep in mind that this technique is designed to position the photographer to be ready to capture the action when it happens; the images may not be tack-sharp but will be reasonably sharp because the goal here is to be ready for the event when it happens.

2010-12-29T13:17:00.000-08:00

Telling Your Story: How to Create a Powerful Photo Essay

Photography has long been considered a powerful storytelling medium, and the photo essay is simply a more deliberate method of telling a particular story or chronicling a certain event. Photojournalists such as Lauren Greenfield and Deanne Fitzmaurice have captured our imaginations and touched us through powerful photo narrative, and with today’s digital technology and a few storytelling techniques, you can begin experimenting with your own photo essays.

Here are a few tips to help you get started:

Clearly Define Your Story: It can be as simple as the first day or school or something more complex such as a controversial topic or current event. Whatever the case may be, make sure you can clearly define it and explain it in one or two sentences. The clarity gleaned from this exercise will help guide you throughout the process.

Go a Little Deeper: Consider what aspects of the story you wish to convey. Is it the wonder of seeing a natural wonder for the first time? The excitement of playing in a first little league game? Spend a little time contemplating the topic as you may uncover other aspects of the event to explore.

Plan Your Images in Advance: It doesn’t have to be exact, but think about each photograph as a paragraph or chapter of your story. How many images you take is up to you as each story is unique. You may find that ten images portray the event as you wish while others may take fifteen or twenty. There is no right or wrong number; just make sure that each photo serves a particular purpose and plays a role in moving the story forward.

Consider How to Share Your Story: Continue to play with your creativity by enlarging the photos and having them mounted or framed as a series. We’d be happy to help you put the final polish on your photo essay. The completed result can become a wonderful conversation piece hanging in your living room or even in a local community center or art gallery!

2010-11-08T11:24:00.000-08:00

Holiday Challenge: Photographing the Thanksgiving Table
Few things stump the assigned family photographer like trying to shoot a large Thangsiving table populated with people and decorations. The traditional table shot is an important annual ritual, and because of this, it’s worth investing in a little bit of advanced planning time to make sure you’re ready when everyone sits down to celebrate.

Things to Bring:
If at all possible, bring a tripod and a remote trigger for your camera. A tripod will steady the camera and allow you to try different locations and angles to see what works for your particular situation. You will also want your lens cleaning kit nearby to ensure smudges don’t ruin your holiday memories. Better yet—consider our new Promaster HGX filter that has the exclusive REPELLAMAX Element Resistant coating which repeals moisture, dust, and fingerprints. Try the fingerprint test to see how well it works!
During busy holiday visits, you will also find extra memory cards handy. There’s nothing worse than running out of room on your memory card and trying to impulsively decide which images to delete to make room for new shots.

Lighting Considerations:
When photographing a long table with people seated from one end to the other, proper lighting is critical to making sure everyone is evenly covered. If your light source is far away from your subjects, the light will fall off gradually; however, if you are shooting close to your subjects (using a point and shoot camera, for example), the light from the flash will fall off quickly and can make those seated further away from you appear darker (because the light from the flash is diminishing and not giving proper illumination). Here are a few things to try:

Check available light around the table. Do you have windows that will provide light and how will this light change when it is time for everyone to sit down for dinner?
Ask a couple of guests to ‘model’ for you for a few minutes. Seat one close to the front of the shot and the other at the far end. Play with different angles and with light sources (lamps, overhead, etc) to see which best provide necessary fill light.
Try bouncing the flash off the ceiling to see if you can create a more even light stream across the table.

The Kids Table:
This is where the real fun happens! If you have a separate kids table, make them the stars in a few photographs. Try standing on a chair and shooting from the top down while they hold up their water glasses in a kid toast. With kids, playing with angles is particularly important because you want to capture the event from their perspective so shoot at their eye level—as adults, we often tower above them, especially when they’re seated.

2010-11-01T06:03:00.000-07:00

Photographing Fantastic Fall Foliage
Fall’s beauty is in full bloom, and photographers across the country are clamoring to capture the amazing turn of seasons. The trees drip with rich colors resembling garnet and jade jewels, the cool air whisks away the remains of a hot summer and the air is filled with anticipation for family-filled holidays. If you’d like to take some of fall’s finest moments and tuck them away to enjoy once the snow falls and the trees’ leaves fade away, here are a few tips:

Shoot Early or Late
Consider shooting during sunrise and sunset hours for the best lighting opportunities as these times can help you capture the richness of color around you. The morning hours may yield the best results because the air will be cleaner and largely free of dust, smog and other airborne particles. Those minute flecks in the air can have an impact on the richness and clarity of your images.

Wait for the Clouds
If you’re trying to capture the vibrancy of autumn leaves and colors, patience pays. Overhead clouds can help retain the depth of color in the foliage whereas direct sunlight is often extremely harsh and can wash out the colors you are trying to capture.

Experiment with a Polarizing Filter
While it may not work in every situation, a polarizing filter can help in those situations where bright sunlight might flatten fall colors. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different tools during your session; when you take the time to try new things, you discover additional tricks to add to your photography arsenal.

Capture Contrast
The rainbow of colors fall provides is even more gorgeous when coupled with contrast. A ruby leaf paired with green grass or weathered wood can create a more powerful image than either item photographed alone.

Stay Simple
Part of the beauty of fall can be captured in its simplicity. Zoom in close and focus on a single leaf or a small cluster of them. Spend a few minutes surveying your surroundings to find the perfect subject. It may be something completely unexpected such as an unassuming park bench or a solitary bird.

Rain Reigns
If it happens to rain in the location you wish to photograph, celebrate! The images you can capture after a rain occurs may just take your breath away. The leaves are clean and vibrant and the rain will clear away dust and other items that may get in the way of the perfect shot.

Play with Settings
If your digital camera includes settings to shoot in ‘vivid’ mode or has options to adjust saturation, use those settings to determine if the results are richer than what you would create in your standard automatic mode. You can also experiment with ‘cloudy’ settings on overcast days. Being open to experimentation may bring images that surprise and delight!

2010-10-12T14:31:00.000-07:00

How Color Temperature Affects Your Photography

Photographers will often comment on an image appearing ‘cool’ or ‘warm’ in tone, which translates into whether the photo has more of a red/yellow cast or a blue cast. It all begins with the color temperature because a lower color temperature will emit a warmer cast while a higher color temperature provides a bluish tint. It is important that you are able to gauge your available light’s temperature and adjust when needed through custom white balance settings. Color temperature is measured in degrees Kelvin. For example, tungsten studio lights measure at 3,200K while a sunny day and clear sky will register at approximately 6,000K. By contrast, a heavily overcast sky reads at close to 10,000K, which explains the bluer tint to images as it is higher on the temperature scale.

The current generation of digital cameras does a pretty good job of using automatic settings for white balance, but this gets more difficult in conditions where there is less light available. If you’re in a situation where the lighting leaves something to be desired, creating a custom white balance for a particular location to be used at that time may yield far superior results.

If you only learn a few key features on your DLSR, creating a custom white balance is one that will come in handy in numerous situations. If you’re not sure how to do this, give us a call or bring your camera into the store—we’d be happy to help you. You won’t believe the difference in your photography!

2010-10-06T16:29:00.001-07:00

Giving Your Photos a Vintage Feel

Sometimes an image creates a far more powerful response when it has been converted to black and white or edited to create a vintage effect. If you’d like to experiment with this technique, all you need is an image editing program. Many of today’s options have a variety of tools for creating this effect.

In addition to converting an image to black and white, you can also choose the sepia option, which will add more of a yellowish-brown cast to the image. You can also experiment with the midtones of the image to soften the contrast in the photograph. The vignette tool is very popular for adding a vintage feel because it creates a softening effect and gradually takes the image to shades of white around the edges. Other tools such as dodge, burn and sponge can also help you ‘antique’ an existing photograph.

Tips for Photographing Fireworks

2010-06-16T12:27:00.000-07:00

It’s time to get ready for Fourth of July celebrations and the amazing fireworks show that accompany the barbeques and other events. Want to get some amazing images? You can capture some spectacular scenes if you take a few tips with you before you begin shooting.
Scout Your Spot: If at all possible, get the event early and take a look around. See if you can get an unobstructed view or if you can position yourself where other onlookers’ heads won’t be in the way.

Try a Tripod:
With the combination of low light and fast action (the fireworks), a steady surface can greatly aid in helping you record that perfect image.
Add a Remote Release: A remote release can free you up to focus on your images and keep your eye on the sky. They are inexpensive and many photographers find them to be an invaluable accessory.

Slow Your Shutter Speed:
A long exposure often works best with fireworks since they are moving events and contain bright light. Experiment with keeping the shutter open long but don’t overdo it because you can overexpose the image. Alternate between using a burst mode to capture the action as well as holding the shutter open (by pressing the button half-way at the beginning of the action and continue holding it down until the fireworks burst is complete) in a single shot. Each location and event has unique circumstances so keep experimenting as you go along until you find the effect that works for you.

Forget the Flash:
Your flash can be more of a hindrance in this case because it may signal to your camera that you need a shorter exposure time. The flash only helps when your object is a few feet away, so in this case, even though it’s dark, keep the flash turned off.

2010-05-28T07:29:00.000-07:00

Picture Dictionary- Histogram:
Ever wonder what that black and white graph is that sometimes shows up on your camera’s LCD screen? It’s called a histogram, and it’s essentially a representation of the contrast and dynamic range in each image. The histogram shows a range of 0-255 with the value of zero being black and white valued at 255. You’ll find the ‘true white’ illustrated at the far right of the graph and the ‘true black’ on the far left. A well-exposed image will show points close to both ends.

2010-05-14T09:33:00.000-07:00

An Introduction to High Dynamic Range Photography by Richmond Camera
High Dynamic Range (HDR) photography is becoming increasingly popular now that digital cameras are the norm. The technique itself, however, was actually created by Charles Wyckoff in the 1930s. HDR refers to a technique that allows an image to display a greater dynamic range between the lightest and darkest areas of the photograph. The intention is to accurately portray the entire range of luminance and do so through a series of bracketed exposures of the same scene so that the result is a stunning display of lighting range.

Many of today’s DSLR cameras have an Auto Exposure Bracketing feature, which will come in handy as you begin experimenting with this technique. The exposure bracketing is simply a way of varying the brightness of the exposure over several sequential frames. Most cameras offer a series of at least three frames while others offer upwards of eleven or more. If you aren’t sure how to set the AEB feature on your camera, check the manual or do an online search for your camera model +AEB. The result should pop up.

You will then need to select your exposure values, which indicate the variance in shutter speed and aperture combinations used to create each image. For maximum effect, choose one complete stop so that you will get a broad range of highlights, shadows and midtones. You’ll also want to set your camera in continuous shooting mode and use the timer.

It’s best to use a tripod for this technique in order to ensure there is no movement between shots as you will be combining multiple images in an editing program later.
Once you’ve finished shooting, you should have a series of images that are underexposed, properly exposed and overexposed. You will then import these images into an image editing program such as Photoshop®, Photomatix or FDR Tools (the latter two being programs specifically designed for creating HDR images).

HDR photography is a fantastic way to play with the more artistic aspects of the craft and allow you to create an image with such variance that it truly stands out among the rest of the images in your portfolio. You may find yourself answering the question, “How did you DO that?” over and over again.

2010-05-11T14:23:00.000-07:00

Spring in Bloom: Wildflower Photography by Richmond Camera
May is the perfect time for taking pictures of wildflowers and nature in full bloom. The rains of April have quenched the lands and helped create the beauty you now wish to capture.

Evaluate the Angles:
Don’t rush to shoot the first pretty flower that strikes your fancy. Study it from a variety of angles and evaluate your options looking through your lens. Move about, experiment with top shots, side views, low points and off-center options. The beauty of wildflowers is multifaceted, and your location and vantage point can illustrate those variances.

Clue in on Contrasts:
Look for contrasts in color and texture when surveying your wildflower patch. For example, see if you can incorporate both the bright purple blooms with a nearby yellow bud, or include a smooth petal with a textured leaf. You may need to experiment with angles and positioning to include contrast but the end result will be well worth the effort!

Don’t Overdo It:
When presented with a large field of flowers, it’s tempting to shoot a broad image to try to encompass the entire area but these images often fall short of showing the appropriate scale. Feel free to take a few in this manner but then start focusing on a key flower or bloom and experiment with your depth of field to see if you can also include part of the vast floral background.

Wind and Light:
Some flowers need the warmth of the sun to open, so consider shooting in the morning hours. Wind can also be an obstacle in getting great wildflower photos, so the mornings are often better as wind tends to pick up later in the day. If bright sunlight or reflections are becoming an issue, consider using a skylight or UV filter to combat the harshness of the sun.

Watch it on the Roadside:
Our nation’s highways are bringing us some of the most fantastic wildflower eye candy this season. For example, in Texas, IH-10 seems to be paved with bluebonnets for miles on end. These attractions lure countless admirers to pull over to take photographs, but please take extra care when doing this. Survey your area to find a safe spot to park and make sure you’re shooting far enough away from traffic so as not to be a distraction or cause an accident.

Panasonic GF-1

2010-02-10T06:04:00.000-08:00

I've spent the last four days trying out the newest Panasonic G series, the GF-1. While it shares many features with its other "G"
siblings, this model is the stand out in my estimation.

What I liked: While small, it handles very nicely, with a very slight protruding grip on the right side. It feels very solid, a well machined tool.

I tried it with the 20mm/1.7 lens and this would always be my choice, though there is a 14-45mm zoom also available in kit form. The JPEGs are very nice but this is a camera for someone who likes RAW. The depth and color of the RAW image was beautiful. I needed to use the supplied Silkypik converter as my Mac does not, as yet, read the G's raw format.
Up to 800 ISO, the G is the equal to any camera in the price range, beyond that, it does give up some noise control, but it is a fine grain that I prefer to some of the overly "cooked" high ISO you often see in other brands. Its AF is definitely as good as the competition, though how they got the Contrast AF to focus this fast is a mystery.

Though I only tried it once, the video mode is clearly superior to that of the Nikon 5000 and Canon T1i. This system was designed for video capability and it shows.

What could have been better: We didn't have the eye-level viewer at the time of my test and I really would prefer this to holding the camera in front of my face. Not everyone will feel the same, but having the option is valuable. There were also many controls located deep in menus, and I didn't have the time to figure them all out. The built in flash only has a guide # of 6, so has little power. It's better than no flash, but has limited usefulness.

Would I want one? Yes, I would. It reminds me of the Leica CL I've carried over the years with a 40/2 and 90/2.8 lens. In fact, I used the same case to carry the GF-1 as I use for the CL.
With the adapters coming that will allow using M series, as well as other brands of lenses, this is a way to connect to many wonderful lenses of the past.

By: Bill Herbert (Richmond Camera Charlottesville)

White Balance

2009-10-13T08:44:00.000-07:00

Shooting digital creates its unique set of challenges. White balance is one of the ever-present challenges that is good to keep in mind when shooting. There are a few really great tools to aid a photographer in setting a customer white balance. First it is important to know when to use a customer white balance.
A good recommendation is to use a customer white balance whenever there is mixed lighting. In other words, when your are using a pop-up flash, sunlight from a near by window, and over head fluorescents to light your subject it is a good idea to set a custom white balance. Although new cameras have fantastic auto white balance, setting a custom white balance is one step towards complete control over the image. When using a custom white balance you can control how cool or how warm the image is. Controlling the warmth gives access to effect the mood of the image. Changing the mood of an image could make the difference between an average photo and a masterpiece.

The following links are a few different options of tools to aid in setting a custom white balance.

This first link is a new product that really takes a look at the entire work flow of a photographer.
ColorChecker Passport

This link is great because the product is really easy to use and it produces great results.
ExpoDisc

This link is a low cost solution that is durable and easy to use.
EZyBalance

Link

2009-08-28T06:33:00.000-07:00

If you like great photography you will love this....
O. Winston Link is a photographer that is known for his night time train photographs. Think about it.... try and photograph a train as it steams down the tracks at night with a 4x5 camera. Link's photographs bring back childhood longings of wanting to grow up and be an engineer.
the Link Museum has a collection that is worth the trip. On their website they have this biography about Link:

Winston Link was born on December 16, 1914, in Brooklyn, New York. He was the second of three children. His father was a public school teacher and exerted a strong influence on his children, escorting them around New York City to see the sights, from battleships at harbor to airplanes in the sky. The elder Link taught his son the use and care of tools and introduced him to photography. Winston developed a lifelong love of tools, becoming a skilled woodworker and a meticulous craftsman. As a teenager, he built his own photographic enlarger and went to work for a local photo store.

Link attended Manual Arts High School in Brooklyn and later the Polytechnic Institute of Brooklyn. He played hockey and was a very popular student, serving as class president all four years in college while majoring in civil engineering. He worked as photographer and photo editor of the school newspaper and, upon graduation, was offered a job as a photographer by a public relations firm, Carl Byoir Associates, in New York City. He worked for Byoir from 1937 to 1942. He never did pursue a career in engineering.
With the onset of World War II, Winston left Byoir and went to work for Columbia Institute Laboratory in Mineola, Long Island, where he performed secret war research for the United States Government. The Long Island Railroad operated tracks right behind the lab. Link had always been fascinated by steam locomotives, and the proximity of the LIRR rekindled his interest, and he started taking pictures. He recognized there was one great problem in shooting photos of locomotives --- lighting. He once said, "You can't move the sun, and you can't move the tracks, so you have to do something else to better light the engines." He went on to custom build his own flash equipment required for his large scale railroad photos which he preferred to shoot at night.
After the war, he was invited back to work at Byoir but declined, deciding instead to become an independent, professional photographer. He soon became known for his skillful photos of complicated factory and industrial interiors. In 1955, Link traveled to Staunton, Virginia, to do an industrial shoot. He knew that the Norfolk & Western Railway passed in nearby Waynesboro and that it was the last large steam-powered American railroad. Link went to observe it. Granted permission to access the tracks by R. H. Smith, president of the N & W Railroad, Link returned the night of January 21, 1955 with his equipment and began photographing the trains.
In the next five years, Winston Link made twenty trips to N & W's tracks in Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland and North Carolina, producing 2,400 images. Most of the images were produced on 4 x 5 film with a Graphic View Camera.
The last of the N & W's steam locomotives was taken out of service in May 1960, and Winston returned to New York, where he continued his work as a commercial photographer. He documented construction of the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge in New York harbor, photographed for Volkswagen of America as well as a number of advertising agencies.
Link, as much historian as artist, employed his technical skill as a means to document his subjects rather than as a means to fame or fortune. Indeed, he discovered shortly after starting his visual documentation of the railroad that no one was interested in photos of an old technology. However, Winston had also recorded the sounds of the steam engines and found that his high quality sound recordings were quickly gaining recognition. He released the first of six recordings, "Sounds of Steam Railroading," in 1957, years before his N & W photographs began to garner attention. It was only in 1983 that his photography began to receive recognition as works of art. That same year, Link closed his New York City studio and moved to rural South Salem, New York.
Steam, Steel & Stars, published in 1987, represented Winston Link's first collection of his railroad photos in book form and dramatically increased recognition of his work. The Last Steam Railroad in America, published in 1995 sealed his status as America's premier photographer of steam railroading. Exhibitions of his work have been seen throughout the United States, Great Britain, Europe and Japan.
In 2000, Winston Link agreed to creation of the O. Winston Link Museum to be located in the historic Norfolk & Western Passenger Station, in Roanoke, Virginia. The station was restored and refurbished by famed industrial designer, Raymond Loewy, and the museum opened in 2004, with Mr. Link actively involved the planning.
O. Winston Link died of a heart attack on January 30, 2001, near his home in South Salem, New York.

Something Great

2009-08-26T13:46:00.000-07:00

This is a link to an organization that is trying to do something nice for those men and women in uniform that are currently overseas. I hope that if you know any one in the military you will take a moment to look at this website.
Portraits of Love

The Future is Here!!!!!!!

2009-08-07T08:10:00.000-07:00

Nikon is really pushing the limits with the S1000pj. At a price tag of $429.95 it may seem pricey, but the possibilities for this camera are limitless. Imagine this camera in the hands of an interior designer. The designer could take a picture of some of their work with the 28-140mm lens (35mm equivalent) at 12.1 mega pixels and then take the camera to a prospective client and project the image on the wall. That is just one in the endless list of possibilities for the S1000pj.

The following is a list of feature from Nikon's website.

12.1 Megapixels for stunning prints as large as 16 x 20 inches.
5x Wide-angle Zoom-NIKKOR Glass Lens has a versatile zoom range that gets you close to the action while capturing expansive landscapes.
World’s first camera with an ultra-small, built-in projector provides new ways for enjoying your pictures anytime and anywhere.
5-way VR Image Stabilization System:

Hybrid VR Image Stabilization combines Optical and Electronic VR Image Stabilization to minimize the effects of camera shake.
Motion Detection automatically detects moving subjects and adjusts shutter speed and the ISO setting to compensate for camera shake and subject movement.
High ISO up to 6400 capability helps give you sharper results when shooting in low light or capturing fast-moving subjects.(ISO 300 and ISO 6400 are available at 3MP or lower resolution.)
Nikon’s original Best Shot Selector (BSS) automatically takes up to 10 shots while the shutter is pressed and saves the sharpest image.

Incredible, Bright 2.7-inch High Resolution LCD makes it easy to compose and share your pictures with anti-glare coating and brightness adjustment.
Scene Auto Selector automatically recognizes the scene in your picture and adjusts camera setting.
Nikon’s Smart Portrait System:

New Skin Softening smoothes skin tone at three different levels for optimal portraits.
In-Camera Red-Eye Fix™ automatically fixes most instances of red-eye in the camera. You may never see red-eye again.
Face-Priority AF Nikon’s face-finding technology that automatically focuses on up to 12 faces.
Smile Timer, Blink Proof and Blink Warning makes sure you’ll always catch the decisive moment when your subject smiles and Blink Proof function shoots two pictures and automatically saves the one in which the subject’s eyes remain open. Blink Warning, when activated alerts you that the subject may have blinked and allows you to retake the photo.
D-Lighting rescues dark or backlit images by improving brightness and detail where needed.

Quick Retouch adjusts contrast and color vividness automatically and automatically activates D-Lighting
16 Scene Modes
Record movies at 640 x 480 resolution at 30 fps
Macro shooting as close as 1.2”
Available Colors: Black

We are definitely planning on stocking a few of the bad boys along with the ac adapter and remote. Please check back latter this next month to see if we have them in yet!

Lensbaby Composer

2009-06-17T13:27:00.000-07:00

Lensbaby came out with their Composer a little while ago. Over last weekend I finally had the pleasure of trying one out. The Composer is a giant step up from the original lens baby. The Composer has double glass optics, a focusing ring, and it can be locked in place. These features are great and they give fantastic results. Most of the test shots were done with the macro set. These little screw on filters are, to say the least, a lot of fun. I cannot say enough good things about the Composer. Even opening the box was fun.
These are some of the images I took.

Richmond Camera will be getting the Composer in soon along with a few of their accessories. If you would like learn a little more about Lensbaby please take a look at their site. Please leave comments about your experience with a Lensbaby.

Kolo Albums....Archival Awesomeness......

2009-06-12T13:21:00.000-07:00

Today, here at Richmond Camera, we put Kolo Albums on our website. These are great albums to say the least. My favorite are the small 4x6 albums. They come in a variety of colors and are the perfect way of preserving your memories in a way that looks great. If you have not heard of Kolo albums yet take a look at the rest of this post.

"Kolo is the celebrated archival photo album used by artists, photographers, graphic designers, clothing designers, architects, interior designers and other creative professionals the world over.
Used to house photographs, lay out storyboards, display artwork or chronicle projects, Kolo is a trusted tool and friend to the creative community. After all, nothing makes quite the same impact it does as when presented in a beautifully made book.
In 1998, a small company set out to reinvent the way photo albums were made and used in every day life. Although the creative community was the first to discover Kolo, the albums quickly grew in popularity to include all types of people who simply treasure photographs and care about how they are displayed.
A Kolo photo album is a home to remember special people, places, times, projects, thoughts, journeys. It can help frame and tell a story.
Whether Kolo is used as a scrapbook, a journal, an album, a portfolio or a project book, the goal is always the same: to let the photographs and the story be the star." (http://kolo.com)

"WHY IS ARCHIVAL STORAGE IMPORTANT TO YOU? Museums treasure fine paintings and other works of art. Kolo believes most people value their photographs in much the same way. After all, photographs are treasures that capture moments in time with friends and loved ones. With Kolo, preserving your cherished photographs is easy. Kolo is committed to making the finest quality archival photo preservation products available in the world.
WHAT IS ARCHIVAL? In the simplest sense, archival means that the materials (e.g. paper) will resist decomposing, disintegrating, discoloring or reacting to other materials over time. In other words, an archival material won't harm your treasured photographs or memorabilia. Specifically, an archival product must be "acid free" (a pH higher than 7.0), "lignin free," and proven to be stable over time. Merely being "acid free" does not assure that a product is archival. All Kolo products are rigorously tested to ensure that they are genuinely archival."(http://kolo.com)
"
YOUR PART: PROPER STORAGE. It is important to store all photographs and photo albums in a dry place with a consistent temperature around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Moisture and large fluctuations in temperature can seriously damage photographs, even if archival storage products are used.

KOLO DESIGN At Kolo, our philosophy is to design products that are clean and understated, innovative and fun. Function is as important as form. We believe that your photographs should be the star and that the Kolo album should enhance them, not detract from them. In the same spirit, we believe that a photo album should present photographs, not simply store them. So we design a variety of products ranging from the Vineyard Mini Paper Album to the larger luxurious Newport Luxury Photo Album. Each Kolo product allows room for journaling, but it isn't necessary to journal. It's okay to simply tell the story with photographs. A Kolo product makes a great gift. It's touching to receive a small Vineyard album or Newport album commemorating a special event or a special day with friends or loved ones. It's something that the recipient will treasure for the rest of their life. "(http://kolo.com)

Kolo albums are the real deal. Each album has great quality and the quality is consistent. To see more pictures of Kolo products check out kolo.com.

Pinhole Day!

2009-04-20T06:01:00.000-07:00

You better make sure you finish that can of Quaker Oats by April 26th, because it’s World Pinhole Photography day! Remember making your very own camera in grade school, using nothing but a can or box, some electric tape and tinfoil? It’s such a simple concept, but so quirky and unpredictable; magical even?
The beauty of pinhole cameras is that the possibilities are endless. Anything can be turned into one as long as it’s light tight, has a teeny hole, and you can stick film or photo paper inside. If you thought it was cool taking pictures with a shoebox, try using a jet hanger as a camera (http://www.alternativephotography.com/articles/art100.html). Don’t have a jet hanger laying around? Eh, ok. Do you have a mouth? You could be like this guy! (http://pinholephotography.org/gallery/gallery.html)
Maybe you’re into instant gratification, and in that case, there are multiple tutorials about turning your digital SLR into a pinhole camera by using a modified body cap in place of a lens (at the risk of leaving your image sensor susceptible to dust and dirt, so be careful, pinhole warriors!)
How ever you chose to celebrate, whether it’s a making a camera of your own, or just finding some cool pinhole pictures to look at, don’t forget to take a little time to pay homage to the principles of photography that make our lives a little bit more awesome.

A Haiku for Pinhole Day:
You think it’s oatmeal
But I’m watching you with it
And you’ve been exposed!

Something to Talk About!!!!!

2009-04-10T07:38:00.000-07:00

The New Canon PowerShot SD 780 IS!
At Richmond Camera we see new line-ups from Canon and Nikon every years and to be honest sometimes it is hard to get excited about every camera that you see, but the Canon PowerShot SD 780IS is really cool! The SD 780 IS has an extensive feature set:

To me it is not the features that make me point out this camera. The size of the camera is the best part. This camera is so small that you can take it anywhere. Slim and sleek this camera is still practical. Let's face it; there comes a time where even professional photographers want to take a picture, but not have to feel like they are working. The whole point of photography is share experiences with friends and family. The Canon SD 780 IS has both the features that are required for great image quality and the sleek design that allows you to take the camera everywhere.

What could be the future of photography? 3D?

2009-03-08T11:02:00.000-07:00

At PMA last week Fuji had a prototype that really made me think. Fuji's prototype was for a 3D digital camera. Could 3D image capture be the future of photography? On one had it seems like a natural progression for photography, but on the other had it does seem like more than most people would need. Having a 3D image capture opens the door to several problems. Fuji had to address how the camera's LCD would work with the 3D capture, the camera's images processor, they needed to find a way to view the 3D images, and they also needed to develop a way to print 3D images. If you would like to read a like more about Fuji's prototype please take a look at this link: http://www.dpreview.com/news/0809/08092209fujifilm3D.asp

Could this be the future of photography? In the next five to ten years could we all be taking 3D pictures?

Work With the ISO

2009-01-05T06:01:00.001-08:00

WORK WITH THE ISO
Changing the ISO changes the sensitivity of your digital camera's sensor to light; the higher the ISO number, the more sensitive it becomes. This can be very handy if you don't have much available light, or if you are changing from outdoor to indoor lighting. It is also sweet if you want to be more discreet and not use a flash. But, remember that the downside of using higher ISOs is that more digital 'noise' can be introduced into your picture - you will see it as speckled or unwanted grain in the image. Of course, you can also use that to your advantage, for old-time effects, film effects and such. The noise can be especially useful when shooting "grunge" shots for teens and bands. Just remember to check your ISO when you change lighting, so you have a good balance of light, noise and such. One final ISO thought: If you are looking for specific effects, such as extremely deep or shallow depth-of-field, and you cannot achieve what you want by changing the lens/shutter speed settings, change your ISO! You CAN shoot at f1.4 in daylight...you just needed to set your camera properly!
-By Tom McElvy

Depth of Field

2008-12-16T14:19:00.001-08:00

Depth of Field

Working with a different depth of field can really change the feel of your pictures. Using a shallow depth of field or a wide aperture will blur the background of the picture. The blurred background puts your subject as the focal point of the picture. This is great for portraits of sports photography. Most cameras have an aperture priority mode which will allow you to work with depth of field without have to worry about anything else. Using an aperture of 3.5, 4.5, or 5.6 is a good place to start.

Find the Best Angle

2008-12-12T08:10:00.000-08:00

Find the Best Angle…
There are sometimes only small differences that turn good pictures into great ones. An easy way to get your photography from good to great is to think about the angle that you are looking at your subject from. When shooting down at your subject you often block the light at illuminates the scene. A good time to use this trick is if you want to take picture of the kids, get down on their level. Have the camera at their eye level. Seeing the world from their level can make the picture more meaningful.