tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29531658338387175112024-02-06T21:30:18.572-08:00Richmond Camera's Photo TipsRichmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.comBlogger34125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-63717367247191396482012-04-06T06:33:00.001-07:002012-04-06T06:36:10.571-07:00<span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:180%;" ><span style="font-family: arial;">Easy Easter Images </span></span><br style="font-family: arial;"><br style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Easter is a special time for many families--one that includes elaborate egg hunts, community gatherings and fellowship. It’s also a wonderful photo opportunity. We’d like to help you make the most of this special holiday with a few tips for creating eye-catching images.</span><br style="font-family: arial;"><br style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:100%;" >Play with Patterns</span><br />Easter baskets, lovely spring dresses and painted eggs can all combine to provide popping patterns to photograph. For example, a close-up of a child holding a brightly colored egg against her dress can create a playful and visually appealing image. Consider pairing bright patterns with a soft background or texture to see the end result.</span><br style="font-family: arial;"><br style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Celebrate Color</span></span><br />This holiday is filled with colorful clothing, decorations, and, with a bit of rain, some beautiful green grass to use as a background. Consider marrying bright colors with the natural background of grass, trees or flowers. Experiment with perspective and shoot a bit tighter on the subject than normal as this helps the colors take center stage and command the eye’s attention.</span><br style="font-family: arial;"><br style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Capture Connections</span></span><br />This is a wonderful opportunity not only for posed family photos and Easter egg hunt snapshots but also for capturing those candid moments between loved ones. Become an observer of the festivities, pull out your best zoom lens and blend into the scenery for a bit. Photograph conversations between siblings, children checking their egg hunt treasures or a good laugh shared between spouses. These connections touch us during the moment, but photographing them will allow them to live on long after the day ends. You can also choose some of your favorites, print and frame them and present them as gifts for future birthday or holiday events. </span><br style="font-family: arial;"></span>Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-70531117965729312882012-02-08T09:40:00.000-08:002012-02-08T09:41:37.751-08:00<span style="font-family: arial;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Understanding F/Stop Calculations</span><br /><br />If you’re someone who wouldn’t know the difference between an f/stop and a bus stop, worry not, because it is a concept that stumps many starting shutterbugs. The reality of photography is that it includes a fair amount of mathematics, an aspect that can be both interesting and confusing. Let us help clarify the concept so you can better enjoy playing with your DSLR by getting out of auto mode.<br /><br />The f/stop is known by several other names including the relative aperture, the f/number and the focal ratio (f/ratio). Essentially, the number is calculated by dividing the focal length of the lens by the aperture diameter. Adjusting by one full stop will either allow in half or double the amount of light. <br /><br />The standard scale of full f/stop range is as follows:<br /><br />1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22<br /><br />The f/1.4 setting lets in the most amount of light and f/22 lets in the least amount of light.<br /><br />The focal length of a lens is defined in millimeters. For example, if you’re using a 50mm lens, f/2 is designating that the diameter of the aperture is 25mm, (50 divided by 25 equals 2.) <br /><br />Understanding the basic numeric structure of f-stops will further strengthen your ability to make adjustments based upon available light. Take your camera outside and start playing with this concept and you’ll quickly see the relationship between the numbers and the results you record.<br /><br /></span>Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-34276950595571783762011-12-05T08:06:00.000-08:002011-12-05T08:09:04.668-08:00Indoor Portrait Tip<span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">Indoor Portrait Tip</span> <span style="font-family:arial;"> Shooting indoors often means the addition of flash as many homes don’t have enough available light to properly brighten the subject, especially when darkness falls. If you need to brighten your subject but worry about the harshness a direct flash can create, consider tilting the flash so that it ‘bounces’ off the upper portion of a wall or the ceiling. It will create a more diffused effect and provide softer lighting as a result. This particular technique is often used by professional photographers in a variety of situations such as wedding receptions with low-light challenges, and the end result is often far more attractive than using straight-on flash. Try it this holiday season and let us know how it worked for you!<br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3U_kclaLuVuKQaYfcX1w-8Gv20G5mwTDektw1tuv4jiT2L61RTiKWGuhU25mbIq-UOdy29Er0drveBqBc6LVaRF-Fog6mDz7oEPH2Lpc9QVbUFHmgUetX6pMSdggwNfuB6jRSv0btroE/s1600/Christmas_Abby_email.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 265px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3U_kclaLuVuKQaYfcX1w-8Gv20G5mwTDektw1tuv4jiT2L61RTiKWGuhU25mbIq-UOdy29Er0drveBqBc6LVaRF-Fog6mDz7oEPH2Lpc9QVbUFHmgUetX6pMSdggwNfuB6jRSv0btroE/s400/Christmas_Abby_email.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5682676890958643842" border="0" /></a>Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-13317713009297148432011-10-17T13:21:00.000-07:002011-10-17T13:22:33.674-07:00<span style="font-size:85%;"><span style=" font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Sports Shot Tip<br /><br /></span><span style="font-family:arial;">When we think of shooting sports, one of the most important skills is the ability to capture the action in a variety of situations and conditions. A tripod is a great partner in helping keep your gear steady so that sharp images are the end result. However, there isn’t always room for a tripod, especially when the prime picture-taking territory is crammed with other shutterbugs vying for the same space. However, a monopod is a great alternative for providing stability in tight situations.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Also, try bumping up your ISO to freeze sports action. This technique often works in low-light conditions but some pros also shoot at a high ISO even when they have favorable light available. Today’s digital cameras are far more powerful than previous generations, so experiment with ratcheting up your ISO higher than normal and evaluate the results. You may end up with the best action shots of the season!</span><br /><br /></span>Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-41861028326830033542011-08-15T07:33:00.000-07:002011-08-15T07:35:30.010-07:00<span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-weight: bold;">Understanding ISO</span></span>
<br /><span style="font-family: arial;">The digital photography terrain is paved with acronyms, and one of the most important ones to understand is known as ISO. What’s interesting is that ISO isn’t an acronym, really--it was created by the International Organization for Standardization to refer to sensitivity of film to light. The term (or acronym) ISO replaced the film equivalent term ASA (American Standards Association). In the days of shooting film, you would purchase film according to its ASA, and this would indicate how sensitive the film would be to light. “Faster film” meant it was more sensitive to light; “slow film” meant less sensitivity to light.</span><br><br>
<br /><span style="font-family: arial;">So, how does this translate today? If we aren’t shooting film, why do we need to worry about ISO?</span>
<br /><span style="font-family: arial;">Well, ISO is one of the key components in creating a properly exposed image. ISO in today’s technology refers to the camera sensor’s sensitivity to light. Photographers will often bump up the ISO in situations such as low light conditions or in circumstances where shutter speed has already been decreased as much as possible. By increasing our ISO setting, we are increasing our camera sensor’s sensitivity to light. As you increase the ISO, less light is needed for the shot. Each time you double the ISO, it equates to needing only half the amount of light to create the same exposure.</span><br><br>
<br /><span style="font-family: arial;">One challenge of shooting at higher ISO settings is that of ‘noise.’ The term ‘noise’ refers to the stray speckles than can be created in an image. In the film equivalent, noise was referred to as film grain. You may not always notice image noise and it may not become apparent until you enlarge an image considerably, but image noise can detract from a quality image in that the photo will look more grainy and speckled. Smaller compact cameras are often more prone to image noise; some cameras can start showing evidence of noise at an ISO of 400 and above. This is due to the fact that a compact model camera’s sensor is much smaller than one used in a DSLR, and a smaller sensor means increased sensitivity at lower ISO numbers. </span><br><br>
<br /><span style="font-family: arial;">Some of today’s high end DSLR cameras offer ISO ranges from 100-6,400, which can then be further expanded higher due to mathematical algorithms. And some of these cameras can shoot at these high ISOs with minimal noise. If such a camera isn’t in your budget, simply practicing varying the ISO settings in different conditions is the best method for helping you understand the relationship between ISO, shutter speed and aperture. </span><br><br>
<br /><span style="font-family: arial;">Learning to adjust ISO in various lighting conditions is an important cornerstone in advancing your shooting skills. It’s also a great opportunity to get more comfortable with your camera’s more advanced settings. </span>
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<br /></span>Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-89470903055852379312011-07-27T06:45:00.000-07:002011-07-27T06:46:30.034-07:00<span style="font-family: arial;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Capturing the Essence of Action </span><br /><br />When it comes to photography techniques, capturing the essence of action through blurred motion is one of the most popular--and sometimes difficult--skills to master. Many professional shooters will tell you that an element of luck often plays a role, but there are a few techniques you can keep tucked in your toolbox when the opportunity arises:<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Take a Tripod: </span> A tripod is one of the most useful accessories a photographer (of any skill level) can own. When it comes to providing stability for shots, a tripod will quickly become your best friend. A tripod can be particularly useful when trying to shoot action and when you’re using a longer lens. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Focus on the Face:</span> A more advanced technique you can try is to focus on your subject’s face while in motion. The idea is to have the facial features remain sharp while allowing the rest of the body (and vehicle, if applicable) to appear more blurred. Just keep in mind that you may have to experiment with shutter speed and that the proper setting depends on what you’re shooting and the speed at which it’s moving. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Figure in the Flash:</span> Using a flash is used more often to freeze motion as opposed to creating a blurred effect, but you can still compose an image of movement using this method. Using a flash will allow you to shoot at a higher shutter speed than you would otherwise use, but again, the overall effect you will create will likely be different than blurred motion. A quality flash can help you take your shooting to the next level. <br /><br />Shooting blurred motion shots may require some experimentation on your part. Use your children running, cars driving by and other objects moving as opportunities to experiment with your settings. Over time, you’ll become more comfortable with what works and what doesn’t and will be able to shoot more intuitively. Yes, this technique takes practice but the results can be immensely rewarding.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></span>Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-27463732087984832962011-06-24T14:05:00.001-07:002011-06-24T14:10:44.195-07:00<span style=" font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;font-size:85%;" >Experiment with the Rule of Thirds </span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br /><br /></span> </span><span style="font-family:arial;font-size:85%;">It’s one of the most basic rules of photography composition--the Rule of Thirds--and its merits can be seen in countless professional photographs and paintings. To understand the Rule of Thirds, visualize two vertical lines and two horizontal lines dividing your image into nine equal squares. You then place your key subjects and points of interest along these lines. They will ‘rest’ where the lines intersect--in the crosshairs.</span><span style="font-size:85%;"> </span><span style="font-family:arial;font-size:85%;"><br /><br />To better understand this concept, take a few of your photos and imagine the nine squares atop the image. Where are your primary items of interest? Choose a few of your favorite photos, the ones that really speak to you, and try the same thing. You may be surprised at how often the Rule of Thirds is at play in your favorite images.</span><span style="font-size:85%;"> </span><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /><br />Most camera manufacturers offer a virtual screen overlay that can divide your viewfinder into the Rule of Thirds format and this may help you get used to seeing your images in this way. You may prefer not to use this guide, but if it is available on your camera and you are new to the concept, try it and see just how different your images appear after experimenting. Think about where you want the eye to be drawn and use this guide to help you create that dramatic event.</span><br /></span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGPQ6XwzIFMPBRc4stilj0QdIvOIWhJEAqA0Am13IVD5babYwyqNUQ2Ji1ChmJOKBACIkpmNypZF0686eyTjW1nx8Uz92zFxL-fbLWq1GtIpEruGHsVIBMxXYQEm40mhvhauK3G-3vp7U/s1600/051103.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 280px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGPQ6XwzIFMPBRc4stilj0QdIvOIWhJEAqA0Am13IVD5babYwyqNUQ2Ji1ChmJOKBACIkpmNypZF0686eyTjW1nx8Uz92zFxL-fbLWq1GtIpEruGHsVIBMxXYQEm40mhvhauK3G-3vp7U/s400/051103.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5621895615305137362" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span>Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-14676346599534600432011-06-01T06:51:00.000-07:002011-06-01T06:58:44.325-07:00<span style="font-size:100%;"><br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" >Summer Stretches of Light: </span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">One of the many beauties of summer includes the promise of longer days, and these time changes in sunrise and sunset can impact your photography. If shooting sunrises tops your list, be prepared to get up earlier! Also, certain areas with extremely hot weather will mean an increased intensity of sunlight fairly early in the morning. </span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">If possible, skip the midday sun as it can often be harsh and may wash out vivid colors. Because the evenings arrive later in the summer, you have more time to prepare your dusk shots. Feel free to start shooting a bit earlier than usual and see how the changing shadows and colors affect your photography. </span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Experimenting with sunrise and sunset shooting can be one of the most satisfying and interesting aspects of vacation photography. Taking into account the local landscape, unique architecture and weather patterns can combine into creating a series of images that move friends and family and possibly even inspire them to visit the locale themselves!</span></span><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjER5mm2ZJuBXL0qb6oh7AT8qRqpWrkeNI5h9bBavNEJ-V67aqoDAQ2HCVxdGz1mG3Ot6gDltS4kcjU5p5mpf6M2VciFVFDEP4-Y6TKuJkh_cKafriyV59MUFKIkpWyanLttd_GRkLCed8/s1600/061105.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 292px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjER5mm2ZJuBXL0qb6oh7AT8qRqpWrkeNI5h9bBavNEJ-V67aqoDAQ2HCVxdGz1mG3Ot6gDltS4kcjU5p5mpf6M2VciFVFDEP4-Y6TKuJkh_cKafriyV59MUFKIkpWyanLttd_GRkLCed8/s400/061105.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5613249331252184754" border="0" /></a>Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-89647513842991053742011-05-19T09:15:00.000-07:002011-05-19T09:17:33.972-07:00<span style="font-weight: bold; font-family: arial;">Take a Tripod Along</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family: arial;">Professional photographers understand the value of a quality tripod, and this accessory help improve your photography by stabilizing your camera and minimizing the camera shake so commonly found in contributing to those blurry photographs. A tripod is particularly helpful if you have to shoot at low shutter speeds. </span><br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /><span style="font-family: arial;">Here are a few to consider:<br /><br /></span><a style="font-family: arial;" href="http://www.richmondcamera.com/Vanguard-Tripods-and-Heads-s/85.htm">http://www.richmondcamera.com/Vanguard-Tripods-and-Heads-s/85.htm</a></span>Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-2679593467525965732011-04-21T07:43:00.000-07:002011-04-21T07:44:46.829-07:00<span style="font-weight: bold; font-family:arial;font-size:85%;" >How-To Read a Digital Histogram</span><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Your digital camera has a simple but powerful tool that can help you evaluate the exposure of your images. It’s called a histogram, and it’s essentially a representation of the contrast and dynamic range in each image. A histogram shows the content of each exposure typically using a range from 0 (true black) to 255 (true white). You’ll find the ‘true white’ illustrated at the far right of the graph and the ‘true black’ on the far left. A well-exposed image will show points close to both ends. If a histogram is abruptly cropped on one end, this usually indicates that your image is under or over-exposed.</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Each histogram image tells a story about the exposure of the image and can help guide you in making adjustments so that future images are properly exposed. </span></span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRptJkE_6-uMcn7mZ2Se_JlLum3_qsk8UM8ZVaZvGRaWrXJc01-Qz3qTViu3rpQLfdNKB057F1JZiQDy2pEduODnNr0_H8pZsPpPuSJd-f1MC6PyzqLmB4KJn3uTgzpGw089yoSntTdmY/s1600/041104_s.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 100px; height: 100px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRptJkE_6-uMcn7mZ2Se_JlLum3_qsk8UM8ZVaZvGRaWrXJc01-Qz3qTViu3rpQLfdNKB057F1JZiQDy2pEduODnNr0_H8pZsPpPuSJd-f1MC6PyzqLmB4KJn3uTgzpGw089yoSntTdmY/s400/041104_s.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5598047735504149042" border="0" /></a>Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-6161825620461817392011-03-01T14:19:00.000-08:002011-03-01T14:27:40.157-08:00<span style="font-family: arial;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Weekend Warrior: Take a Quick Photo Road Trip<br /><br /></span>Have you ever thought about taking a Saturday (or Sunday) off from chores, errands and other weekend commitments to spend a day following your photographic passion? With spring knocking on the door, it’s time to seize the opportunity to get out and explore your locales. It doesn’t have to be elaborate or a far-flung destination; even the neighboring town can be a grand adventure.<br /><br />Here’s a quick guide to help you plan your weekend getaway.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">The Photo Day Tripper’s Checklist:</span><br /></span><ul><li><span style="font-family: arial;font-size:85%;" >Write down the names of a few towns that are only 30 minutes to a couple hours away from where you live. Decide which one holds the most interest.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: arial;font-size:85%;" >After choosing a town, do an online search for interesting facts about the town-- a city park, an iconic building, an upcoming festival or unique wildlife.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: arial;font-size:85%;" >Choose a date for the safari--it can even be this weekend! Just make sure to clear your calendar--and don’t accept new appointments. You can, however, invite another shutterbug to travel with you!</span></li><li><span style="font-family: arial;font-size:85%;" >Prepare all your gear including charging your camera batteries, format memory cards (and pack extras), include a lens cleaning kit (here are a few items to consider: <a href="http://www.richmondcamera.com/Camera-Care-s/7.htm" target="blank">http://www.richmondcamera.com/Camera-Care-s/7.htm</a>) and tripod in your camera bag. Also bring your external flash and extra lenses if you have them. And don’t forget your charging cable (or dock) and your camera’s manual!</span></li><li><span style="font-family: arial;font-size:85%;" >Pack extra water bottles and snacks in your car in case you end up staying in one location longer than you expected. You don’t want low-blood sugar to distract you or pull you away from your location too soon.</span></li></ul><span style="font-family: arial;font-size:85%;" >We often talk about wanting to spend time experimenting with our craft but we also realize that everyday life can get in the way of even the best intentions. An impromptu photo getaway can give you the mental space and some uninterrupted time to explore a new location and experiment with your unique viewpoint. <br /><br />Pick a place, pick a date, grab your gear and hit the road!</span>Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-16101046595560980522011-02-02T07:12:00.000-08:002011-02-02T07:15:25.781-08:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq8oTNnq53o5hswhteSwJ_Ir_vtBK554qVZY5igAwW5b9WtYmtBnzTslRveQtcGGdV417Cofo6DD5Wmsv36pKlsajGwiLQCOkswBbDecaOxG-iWrj9WAPPS6qFEOD0z4IVsfFwDDZ3Q28/s1600/021101.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq8oTNnq53o5hswhteSwJ_Ir_vtBK554qVZY5igAwW5b9WtYmtBnzTslRveQtcGGdV417Cofo6DD5Wmsv36pKlsajGwiLQCOkswBbDecaOxG-iWrj9WAPPS6qFEOD0z4IVsfFwDDZ3Q28/s400/021101.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5569111007741086002" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Sport Shooting Technique: Zone Focusing</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">The concept of zone focusing is commonly used in street photography whereby the photographer sets his DOF (depth of field) for a specific area and waits for the subject to enter the frame. This technique is also used in sports photography and can help you position yourself to capture the action when it hits.<br /><br /></span><span style="font-family:arial;">You will need to shoot in manual or AP (aperture priority) mode. Estimate the number of feet from the camera that you expect the subject to be and then use the smallest aperture available for that distance. You may need to experiment to find the correct setting, but keep in mind that this technique is designed to position the photographer to be ready to capture the action when it happens; the images may not be tack-sharp but will be reasonably sharp because the goal here is to be ready for the event when it happens.</span><br /><br /><br /></span>Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-13281790499249353142010-12-29T13:17:00.000-08:002010-12-29T13:22:56.119-08:00<span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;font-size:85%;" >Telling Your Story: How to Create a Powerful Photo Essay</span><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /><br /></span><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:85%;" >Photography has long been considered a powerful storytelling medium, and the photo essay is simply a more deliberate method of telling a particular story or chronicling a certain event. Photojournalists such as Lauren Greenfield and Deanne Fitzmaurice have captured our imaginations and touched us through powerful photo narrative, and with today’s digital technology and a few storytelling techniques, you can begin experimenting with your own photo essays.</span><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /><br /><br /><br /></span><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;font-size:85%;" >Here are a few tips to help you get started:</span><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span><ul><li><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Clearly Define Your Story:</span> It can be as simple as the first day or school or something more complex such as a controversial topic or current event. Whatever the case may be, make sure you can clearly define it and explain it in one or two sentences. The clarity gleaned from this exercise will help guide you throughout the process.</span></li></ul><ul style="font-family:arial;"><li><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Go a Little Deeper:</span> Consider what aspects of the story you wish to convey. Is it the wonder of seeing a natural wonder for the first time? The excitement of playing in a first little league game? Spend a little time contemplating the topic as you may uncover other aspects of the event to explore.</span></li></ul><ul style="font-family:arial;"><li><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Plan Your Images in Advance:</span> It doesn’t have to be exact, but think about each photograph as a paragraph or chapter of your story. How many images you take is up to you as each story is unique. You may find that ten images portray the event as you wish while others may take fifteen or twenty. There is no right or wrong number; just make sure that each photo serves a particular purpose and plays a role in moving the story forward.</span></li></ul><ul style="font-family:arial;"><li><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Consider How to Share Your Story:</span> Continue to play with your creativity by enlarging the photos and having them mounted or framed as a series. We’d be happy to help you put the final polish on your photo essay. The completed result can become a wonderful conversation piece hanging in your living room or even in a local community center or art gallery! </span></li></ul><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span>Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-65551705245240237112010-11-08T11:24:00.000-08:002010-11-08T11:26:49.788-08:00<span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Holiday Challenge: Photographing the Thanksgiving Table </span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Few things stump the assigned family photographer like trying to shoot a large Thangsiving table populated with people and decorations. The traditional table shot is an important annual ritual, and because of this, it’s worth investing in a little bit of advanced planning time to make sure you’re ready when everyone sits down to celebrate.</span><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Things to Bring: </span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">If at all possible, bring a tripod and a remote trigger for your camera. A tripod will steady the camera and allow you to try different locations and angles to see what works for your particular situation. You will also want your lens cleaning kit nearby to ensure smudges don’t ruin your holiday memories. Better yet—consider our new Promaster HGX filter that has the exclusive REPELLAMAX Element Resistant coating which repeals moisture, dust, and fingerprints. Try the fingerprint test to see how well it works! </span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">During busy holiday visits, you will also find extra memory cards handy. There’s nothing worse than running out of room on your memory card and trying to impulsively decide which images to delete to make room for new shots. </span><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Lighting Considerations: </span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">When photographing a long table with people seated from one end to the other, proper lighting is critical to making sure everyone is evenly covered. If your light source is far away from your subjects, the light will fall off gradually; however, if you are shooting close to your subjects (using a point and shoot camera, for example), the light from the flash will fall off quickly and can make those seated further away from you appear darker (because the light from the flash is diminishing and not giving proper illumination). Here are a few things to try:</span><br /><ul style="font-family: arial;"><li>Check available light around the table. Do you have windows that will provide light and how will this light change when it is time for everyone to sit down for dinner?</li><li>Ask a couple of guests to ‘model’ for you for a few minutes. Seat one close to the front of the shot and the other at the far end. Play with different angles and with light sources (lamps, overhead, etc) to see which best provide necessary fill light.</li><li>Try bouncing the flash off the ceiling to see if you can create a more even light stream across the table.</li></ul><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >The Kids Table: </span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">This is where the real fun happens! If you have a separate kids table, make them the stars in a few photographs. Try standing on a chair and shooting from the top down while they hold up their water glasses in a kid toast. With kids, playing with angles is particularly important because you want to capture the event from their perspective so shoot at their eye level—as adults, we often tower above them, especially when they’re seated. </span>Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-5526171986883448752010-11-01T06:03:00.000-07:002010-11-01T06:09:02.448-07:00<span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">Photographing Fantastic Fall Foliage</span></span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Fall’s beauty is in full bloom, and photographers across the country are clamoring to capture the amazing turn of seasons. The trees drip with rich colors resembling garnet and jade jewels, the cool air whisks away the remains of a hot summer and the air is filled with anticipation for family-filled holidays. If you’d like to take some of fall’s finest moments and tuck them away to enjoy once the snow falls and the trees’ leaves fade away, here are a few tips:</span><br /><br><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Shoot Early or Late </span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Consider shooting during sunrise and sunset hours for the best lighting opportunities as these times can help you capture the richness of color around you. The morning hours may yield the best results because the air will be cleaner and largely free of dust, smog and other airborne particles. Those minute flecks in the air can have an impact on the richness and clarity of your images.</span><br /><br><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Wait for the Clouds </span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">If you’re trying to capture the vibrancy of autumn leaves and colors, patience pays. Overhead clouds can help retain the depth of color in the foliage whereas direct sunlight is often extremely harsh and can wash out the colors you are trying to capture.</span><br /><br><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Experiment with a Polarizing Filter </span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> While it may not work in every situation, a polarizing filter can help in those situations where bright sunlight might flatten fall colors. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different tools during your session; when you take the time to try new things, you discover additional tricks to add to your photography arsenal. </span><br /><br><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Capture Contrast </span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">The rainbow of colors fall provides is even more gorgeous when coupled with contrast. A ruby leaf paired with green grass or weathered wood can create a more powerful image than either item photographed alone.</span><br /><br><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Stay Simple</span> </span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Part of the beauty of fall can be captured in its simplicity. Zoom in close and focus on a single leaf or a small cluster of them. Spend a few minutes surveying your surroundings to find the perfect subject. It may be something completely unexpected such as an unassuming park bench or a solitary bird.</span><br /><br><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Rain Reigns </span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">If it happens to rain in the location you wish to photograph, celebrate! The images you can capture after a rain occurs may just take your breath away. The leaves are clean and vibrant and the rain will clear away dust and other items that may get in the way of the perfect shot.</span><br /><br><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Play with Settings</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">If your digital camera includes settings to shoot in ‘vivid’ mode or has options to adjust saturation, use those settings to determine if the results are richer than what you would create in your standard automatic mode. You can also experiment with ‘cloudy’ settings on overcast days. Being open to experimentation may bring images that surprise and delight!</span>Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-35017560389352857062010-10-12T14:31:00.000-07:002010-10-12T14:34:55.953-07:00<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:trackmoves/> <w:trackformatting/> <w:punctuationkerning/> <w:validateagainstschemas/> <w:saveifxmlinvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:ignoremixedcontent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:alwaysshowplaceholdertext>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:donotpromoteqf/> <w:lidthemeother>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther> <w:lidthemeasian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:lidthemecomplexscript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:compatibility> <w:breakwrappedtables/> <w:snaptogridincell/> <w:wraptextwithpunct/> <w:useasianbreakrules/> <w:dontgrowautofit/> <w:splitpgbreakandparamark/> <w:dontvertaligncellwithsp/> 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mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;} </style> <![endif]--> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><span style="line-height: 115%;font-size:100%;" > </span><span style="line-height: 115%; font-weight: bold;font-size:100%;" >How Color Temperature Affects Your Photography </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><span style="line-height: 115%;font-size:100%;" >Photographers will </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq5XjdhUPaxI6wRP5evFyHiDNa1Ca56dYFycB9R1Gr4Y0RaA7OzzWtvoaV810qZRA10TOCU1d7B5eV78SOaD-9cimxSp2eSZIEuHhJUL6tTcJiYCnhj5R1csCOKv7Q_q6HCViPhmex1Dw/s1600/101006.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 263px; height: 178px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq5XjdhUPaxI6wRP5evFyHiDNa1Ca56dYFycB9R1Gr4Y0RaA7OzzWtvoaV810qZRA10TOCU1d7B5eV78SOaD-9cimxSp2eSZIEuHhJUL6tTcJiYCnhj5R1csCOKv7Q_q6HCViPhmex1Dw/s200/101006.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5527275941841914530" border="0" /></a><span style="line-height: 115%;font-size:100%;" >often comment on an image appearing ‘cool’ or ‘warm’ in tone, which translates</span><span style="line-height: 115%;font-size:100%;" > into whether the photo has more of a red/yellow cast or a blue cast.<span style=""> </span>It all begins with the color temperature because a lower color temperature will emit a </span><span style="line-height: 115%;font-size:100%;" >warmer cast while a higher color temperature provides a bluish tint.<span style=""> </span>It is important that you are able to gauge your available light’s temperature and adjust when needed through custom white balance settings.<span style=""> </span>Color temperature is measured in degrees Kelvin.<span style=""> </span>For example, tungsten studio lights measure at 3,200K while a sunny day and clear sky will register at approximately 6,000K.<span style=""> </span>By contrast, a heavily overcast sky reads at close to 10,000K, which explains the bluer tint to images as it is higher on the temperature scale.<span style=""> </span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><span style="line-height: 115%;font-size:100%;" >The current generation of digital cameras does a pretty good job of using automatic settings for white balance, but this gets more difficult in conditions where there is less light available. If you’re in a situation where the lighting leaves something to be desired, creating a custom white balance for a particular location to be used at that time may yield far superior results.<span style=""> </span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><span style="line-height: 115%;font-size:100%;" >If you only learn a few key features on your DLSR, creating a custom white balance is one that will come in handy in numerous situations.<span style=""> </span>If you’re not sure how to do this, give us a call or bring your camera into the store—we’d be happy to help you.<span style=""> </span>You won’t believe the difference in your photography!</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:arial;"><span style="line-height: 115%;font-size:100%;" ><br /></span></p>Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-42536918485212435782010-10-06T16:29:00.001-07:002010-10-06T16:29:50.017-07:00<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:trackmoves/> <w:trackformatting/> <w:punctuationkerning/> <w:validateagainstschemas/> <w:saveifxmlinvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:ignoremixedcontent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:alwaysshowplaceholdertext>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:donotpromoteqf/> <w:lidthemeother>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther> <w:lidthemeasian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:lidthemecomplexscript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:compatibility> <w:breakwrappedtables/> <w:snaptogridincell/> <w:wraptextwithpunct/> <w:useasianbreakrules/> <w:dontgrowautofit/> <w:splitpgbreakandparamark/> <w:dontvertaligncellwithsp/> <w:dontbreakconstrainedforcedtables/> <w:dontvertalignintxbx/> <w:word11kerningpairs/> 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mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;} </style> <![endif]--> <p style="font-family: arial;" class="MsoNormal"><b style="">Giving Your Photos a Vintage Feel</b></p> <p style="font-family: arial;" class="MsoNormal">Sometimes an image creates a far more powerful response when it has been converted to black and white or edited to create a vintage effect.<span style=""> </span>If you’d like to experiment with this technique, all you need is an image editing program. Many of today’s options have a variety of tools for creating this effect.</p> <p style="font-family: arial;" class="MsoNormal">In addition to converting an image to black and white, you can also choose the sepia option, which will add more of a yellowish-brown cast to the image. You can also experiment with the midtones of the image to soften the contrast in the photograph.<span style=""> </span>The vignette tool is very popular for adding a vintage feel because it creates a softening effect and gradually takes the image to shades of white around the edges.<span style=""> </span>Other tools such as dodge, burn and sponge can also help you ‘antique’ an existing photograph.</p>Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-62388291352044147792010-06-16T12:27:00.000-07:002010-06-16T12:36:14.687-07:00Tips for Photographing FireworksIt’s time to get ready for Fourth of July celebrations and the amazing fireworks show that accompany the barbeques and other events. Want to get some amazing images? You can capture some spectacular scenes if you take a few tips with you before you begin shooting.<br />Scout Your Spot: If at all possible, get the event early and take a look around. See if you can get an unobstructed view or if you can position yourself where other onlookers’ heads won’t be in the way.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Try a Tripod: </span><br />With the combination of low light and fast action (the fireworks), a steady surface can greatly aid in helping you record that perfect image.<br />Add a Remote Release: A remote release can free you up to focus on your images and keep your eye on the sky. They are inexpensive and many photographers find them to be an invaluable accessory.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Slow Your Shutter Speed: </span><br />A long exposure often works best with fireworks since they are moving events and contain bright light. Experiment with keeping the shutter open long but don’t overdo it because you can overexpose the image. Alternate between using a burst mode to capture the action as well as holding the shutter open (by pressing the button half-way at the beginning of the action and continue holding it down until the fireworks burst is complete) in a single shot. Each location and event has unique circumstances so keep experimenting as you go along until you find the effect that works for you.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Forget the Flash: </span><br />Your flash can be more of a hindrance in this case because it may signal to your camera that you need a shorter exposure time. The flash only helps when your object is a few feet away, so in this case, even though it’s dark, keep the flash turned off.Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-68134273653504606622010-05-28T07:29:00.000-07:002010-05-28T07:30:18.238-07:00<span style="font-weight: bold;">Picture Dictionary- Histogram: </span><br />Ever wonder what that black and white graph is that sometimes shows up on your camera’s LCD screen? It’s called a histogram, and it’s essentially a representation of the contrast and dynamic range in each image. The histogram shows a range of 0-255 with the value of zero being black and white valued at 255. You’ll find the ‘true white’ illustrated at the far right of the graph and the ‘true black’ on the far left. A well-exposed image will show points close to both ends.Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-81660110452195505502010-05-14T09:33:00.000-07:002010-05-14T09:35:32.819-07:00<span style="font-weight:bold;">An Introduction to High Dynamic Range Photography</span> <span style="font-style:italic;">by Richmond Camera</span><br />High Dynamic Range (HDR) photography is becoming increasingly popular now that digital cameras are the norm. The technique itself, however, was actually created by Charles Wyckoff in the 1930s. HDR refers to a technique that allows an image to display a greater dynamic range between the lightest and darkest areas of the photograph. The intention is to accurately portray the entire range of luminance and do so through a series of bracketed exposures of the same scene so that the result is a stunning display of lighting range.<br /><br />Many of today’s DSLR cameras have an Auto Exposure Bracketing feature, which will come in handy as you begin experimenting with this technique. The exposure bracketing is simply a way of varying the brightness of the exposure over several sequential frames. Most cameras offer a series of at least three frames while others offer upwards of eleven or more. If you aren’t sure how to set the AEB feature on your camera, check the manual or do an online search for your camera model +AEB. The result should pop up.<br /><br />You will then need to select your exposure values, which indicate the variance in shutter speed and aperture combinations used to create each image. For maximum effect, choose one complete stop so that you will get a broad range of highlights, shadows and midtones. You’ll also want to set your camera in continuous shooting mode and use the timer.<br /><br />It’s best to use a tripod for this technique in order to ensure there is no movement between shots as you will be combining multiple images in an editing program later. <br />Once you’ve finished shooting, you should have a series of images that are underexposed, properly exposed and overexposed. You will then import these images into an image editing program such as Photoshop®, Photomatix or FDR Tools (the latter two being programs specifically designed for creating HDR images). <br /><br />HDR photography is a fantastic way to play with the more artistic aspects of the craft and allow you to create an image with such variance that it truly stands out among the rest of the images in your portfolio. You may find yourself answering the question, “How did you DO that?” over and over again.Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-69388348388358999932010-05-11T14:23:00.000-07:002010-05-11T14:26:26.203-07:00<span style="font-weight:bold;">Spring in Bloom:</span> <span style="font-weight:bold;">Wildflower Photography</span><span style="font-style:italic;"> by Richmond Camera</span><br />May is the perfect time for taking pictures of wildflowers and nature in full bloom. The rains of April have quenched the lands and helped create the beauty you now wish to capture. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Evaluate the Angles:</span> <br />Don’t rush to shoot the first pretty flower that strikes your fancy. Study it from a variety of angles and evaluate your options looking through your lens. Move about, experiment with top shots, side views, low points and off-center options. The beauty of wildflowers is multifaceted, and your location and vantage point can illustrate those variances. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Clue in on Contrasts:</span> <br /> Look for contrasts in color and texture when surveying your wildflower patch. For example, see if you can incorporate both the bright purple blooms with a nearby yellow bud, or include a smooth petal with a textured leaf. You may need to experiment with angles and positioning to include contrast but the end result will be well worth the effort!<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Don’t Overdo It:</span> <br />When presented with a large field of flowers, it’s tempting to shoot a broad image to try to encompass the entire area but these images often fall short of showing the appropriate scale. Feel free to take a few in this manner but then start focusing on a key flower or bloom and experiment with your depth of field to see if you can also include part of the vast floral background. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Wind and Light:</span> <br />Some flowers need the warmth of the sun to open, so consider shooting in the morning hours. Wind can also be an obstacle in getting great wildflower photos, so the mornings are often better as wind tends to pick up later in the day. If bright sunlight or reflections are becoming an issue, consider using a skylight or UV filter to combat the harshness of the sun. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Watch it on the Roadside:</span> <br />Our nation’s highways are bringing us some of the most fantastic wildflower eye candy this season. For example, in Texas, IH-10 seems to be paved with bluebonnets for miles on end. These attractions lure countless admirers to pull over to take photographs, but please take extra care when doing this. Survey your area to find a safe spot to park and make sure you’re shooting far enough away from traffic so as not to be a distraction or cause an accident.Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-11857765358845711122010-02-10T06:04:00.000-08:002010-02-10T06:20:51.745-08:00Panasonic GF-1I've spent the last four days trying out the newest Panasonic G series, the GF-1. While it shares many features with its other "G" <br />siblings, this model is the stand out in my estimation.<br /><br />What I liked: While small, it handles very nicely, with a very slight protruding grip on the right side. It feels very solid, a well machined tool.<br /><br />I tried it with the 20mm/1.7 lens and this would always be my choice, though there is a 14-45mm zoom also available in kit form. The JPEGs are very nice but this is a camera for someone who likes RAW. The depth and color of the RAW image was beautiful. I needed to use the supplied Silkypik converter as my Mac does not, as yet, read the G's raw format.<br />Up to 800 ISO, the G is the equal to any camera in the price range, beyond that, it does give up some noise control, but it is a fine grain that I prefer to some of the overly "cooked" high ISO you often see in other brands. Its AF is definitely as good as the competition, though how they got the Contrast AF to focus this fast is a mystery.<br /><br />Though I only tried it once, the video mode is clearly superior to that of the Nikon 5000 and Canon T1i. This system was designed for video capability and it shows.<br /><br />What could have been better: We didn't have the eye-level viewer at the time of my test and I really would prefer this to holding the camera in front of my face. Not everyone will feel the same, but having the option is valuable. There were also many controls located deep in menus, and I didn't have the time to figure them all out. The built in flash only has a guide # of 6, so has little power. It's better than no flash, but has limited usefulness.<br /><br />Would I want one? Yes, I would. It reminds me of the Leica CL I've carried over the years with a 40/2 and 90/2.8 lens. In fact, I used the same case to carry the GF-1 as I use for the CL.<br />With the adapters coming that will allow using M series, as well as other brands of lenses, this is a way to connect to many wonderful lenses of the past.<br /><br />By: Bill Herbert (Richmond Camera Charlottesville)<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcuW1oBIoYL51Lhx6kAJ_PI5cqwpG9BaNLEM05ngqmYtyfiS3Q9tJ4GjGoLNIhdSPhMS4AuUnyYlllDCJPDoLKIfG9frdpQxS0RTWqA5HRn-dpDghiyTmtsIZkU6YzPGeV2xO1pkW7VX4/s1600-h/night_G1.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 134px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcuW1oBIoYL51Lhx6kAJ_PI5cqwpG9BaNLEM05ngqmYtyfiS3Q9tJ4GjGoLNIhdSPhMS4AuUnyYlllDCJPDoLKIfG9frdpQxS0RTWqA5HRn-dpDghiyTmtsIZkU6YzPGeV2xO1pkW7VX4/s200/night_G1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436617973008840258" border="0" /></a> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu-93PIaL8ge4yhyVVF7ZUikGCnnSWaEnKBz21ZjrCf20q7_J6BawcPK7bzuma2Zxnt77EiSn1Cnk-fAgPCQRRcZ6lQR6EADEF7XKDyUpX-D89PPispqL8JEYd2zH8KLzzhyphenhyphendJFPgxmbI/s1600-h/horse_g1.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 134px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu-93PIaL8ge4yhyVVF7ZUikGCnnSWaEnKBz21ZjrCf20q7_J6BawcPK7bzuma2Zxnt77EiSn1Cnk-fAgPCQRRcZ6lQR6EADEF7XKDyUpX-D89PPispqL8JEYd2zH8KLzzhyphenhyphendJFPgxmbI/s200/horse_g1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436617760489965698" border="0" /></a>Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-18743744425742300302009-10-13T08:44:00.000-07:002009-10-13T09:13:52.407-07:00White Balance<span style="font-family: arial;">Shooting digital creates its unique set of challenges. White balance is one of the ever-present challenges that is good to keep in mind when shooting. There are a few really great tools to aid a photographer in setting a customer white balance. First it is important to know when to use a customer white balance. </span><br /><span style="font-family: arial;">A good recommendation is to use a customer white balance whenever there is mixed lighting. In other words, when your are using a pop-up flash, sunlight from a near by window, and over head fluorescents to light your subject it is a good idea to set a custom white balance. Although new cameras have fantastic auto white balance, setting a custom white balance is one step towards complete control over the image. When using a custom white balance you can control how cool or how warm the image is. Controlling the warmth gives access to effect the mood of the image.</span><span style="font-family: arial;"> Changing the mood of an image could make the difference between an average photo and a masterpiece.<br /><br />The following links are a few different options of tools to aid in setting a custom white balance.<br /><br />This first link is a new product that really takes a look at the entire work flow of a photographer.<br /><a href="http://www.xritephoto.com/ph_product_overview.aspx?id=1257&tab=videos">ColorChecker Passport</a><br /><br />This link is great because the product is really easy to use and it produces great results.<br /><a href="http://www.expoimaging.net/product-detail.php?cat_id=1&product_id=2&keywords=ExpoDisc_Neutral&gclid=CKCl06qyup0CFQpinAodWmFhjQ">ExpoDisc</a><br /><br />This link is a low cost solution that is durable and easy to use.<br /><a href="http://www.richmondcamera.com/Lastolite-Ezybalance-Grey-White-Card-12-p/116327.htm">EZyBalance</a><br /></span>Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-41809446412589958822009-08-28T06:33:00.000-07:002009-08-28T06:49:31.043-07:00LinkIf you like great photography you will love this....<br />O. Winston Link is a photographer that is known for his night time train photographs. Think about it.... try and photograph a train as it steams down the tracks at night with a 4x5 camera. Link's photographs bring back childhood longings of wanting to grow up and be an engineer.<br /><a href="http://www.linkmuseum.org/index.html">the Link Museum</a> has a collection that is worth the trip. On their website they have this biography about Link:<br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><blockquote>Winston Link was born on December 16, 1914, in Brooklyn, New York. He was the second of three children. His father was a public school teacher and exerted a strong influence on his children, escorting them around New York City to see the sights, from battleships at harbor to airplanes in the sky. The elder Link taught his son the use and care of tools and introduced him to photography. Winston developed a lifelong love of tools, becoming a skilled woodworker and a meticulous craftsman. As a teenager, he built his own photographic enlarger and went to work for a local photo store. </blockquote></span><blockquote><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><p><span style="font-size:85%;">Link attended Manual Arts High School in Brooklyn and later the Polytechnic Institute of Brooklyn. He played hockey and was a very popular student, serving as class president all four years in college while majoring in civil engineering. He worked as photographer and photo editor of the school newspaper and, upon graduation, was offered a job as a photographer by a public relations firm, Carl Byoir Associates, in New York City. He worked for Byoir from 1937 to 1942. He never did pursue a career in engineering. </span></p><p><span style="font-size:85%;">With the onset of World War II, Winston left Byoir and went to work for Columbia Institute Laboratory in Mineola, Long Island, where he performed secret war research for the United States Government. The Long Island Railroad operated tracks right behind the lab. Link had always been fascinated by steam locomotives, and the proximity of the LIRR rekindled his interest, and he started taking pictures. He recognized there was one great problem in shooting photos of locomotives --- lighting. He once said, "You can't move the sun, and you can't move the tracks, so you have to do something else to better light the engines." He went on to custom build his own flash equipment required for his large scale railroad photos which he preferred to shoot at night. </span></p><p><span style="font-size:85%;">After the war, he was invited back to work at Byoir but declined, deciding instead to become an independent, professional photographer. He soon became known for his skillful photos of complicated factory and industrial interiors. In 1955, Link traveled to Staunton, Virginia, to do an industrial shoot. He knew that the Norfolk & Western Railway passed in nearby Waynesboro and that it was the last large steam-powered American railroad. Link went to observe it. Granted permission to access the tracks by R. H. Smith, president of the N & W Railroad, Link returned the night of January 21, 1955 with his equipment and began photographing the trains. </span></p><p><span style="font-size:85%;">In the next five years, Winston Link made twenty trips to N & W's tracks in Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland and North Carolina, producing 2,400 images. Most of the images were produced on 4 x 5 film with a Graphic View Camera. </span></p><p><span style="font-size:85%;">The last of the N & W's steam locomotives was taken out of service in May 1960, and Winston returned to New York, where he continued his work as a commercial photographer. He documented construction of the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge in New York harbor, photographed for Volkswagen of America as well as a number of advertising agencies. </span></p><p><span style="font-size:85%;">Link, as much historian as artist, employed his technical skill as a means to document his subjects rather than as a means to fame or fortune. Indeed, he discovered shortly after starting his visual documentation of the railroad that no one was interested in photos of an old technology. However, Winston had also recorded the sounds of the steam engines and found that his high quality sound recordings were quickly gaining recognition. He released the first of six recordings, "Sounds of Steam Railroading," in 1957, years before his N & W photographs began to garner attention. It was only in 1983 that his photography began to receive recognition as works of art. That same year, Link closed his New York City studio and moved to rural South Salem, New York. </span></p><p><span style="font-size:85%;">Steam, Steel & Stars, published in 1987, represented Winston Link's first collection of his railroad photos in book form and dramatically increased recognition of his work. The Last Steam Railroad in America, published in 1995 sealed his status as America's premier photographer of steam railroading. Exhibitions of his work have been seen throughout the United States, Great Britain, Europe and Japan. </span></p><p><span style="font-size:85%;">In 2000, Winston Link agreed to creation of the O. Winston Link Museum to be located in the historic Norfolk & Western Passenger Station, in Roanoke, Virginia. The station was restored and refurbished by famed industrial designer, Raymond Loewy, and the museum opened in 2004, with Mr. Link actively involved the planning. </span></p><p><span style="font-size:85%;">O. Winston Link died of a heart attack on January 30, 2001, near his home in South Salem, New York.</span></p><p><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></p></blockquote><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbjsZtUchZG8Jy8E4BGsToEkAFzrdHK2-qzusEjLxPHwYHw744RD66SHJf_GDxMJhQv64r9FR587vmVWlw1YHl94CXbaFGXnA8NhQGaSgbeghTTQOr4yx1blUJiWn1yFoGa7ccF5_mht4/s1600-h/link.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 133px; float: left;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbjsZtUchZG8Jy8E4BGsToEkAFzrdHK2-qzusEjLxPHwYHw744RD66SHJf_GDxMJhQv64r9FR587vmVWlw1YHl94CXbaFGXnA8NhQGaSgbeghTTQOr4yx1blUJiWn1yFoGa7ccF5_mht4/s200/link.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375009861629178930" border="0" /></a> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgovztSK9LKlRtq79nsyeJt5NV7IYJ7IRIZJHH1ABsMFaV4GmGB3cyBOTm4zV-v7yCK4vKxXM_YlqL5sl2qKvRSM2ePd9jBjMcfvsIO9BvQfYgDbvIA6TNlB6QRA84SmYvXRDSx7d3_ju8/s1600-h/nw796.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 160px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgovztSK9LKlRtq79nsyeJt5NV7IYJ7IRIZJHH1ABsMFaV4GmGB3cyBOTm4zV-v7yCK4vKxXM_YlqL5sl2qKvRSM2ePd9jBjMcfvsIO9BvQfYgDbvIA6TNlB6QRA84SmYvXRDSx7d3_ju8/s200/nw796.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375010103429299922" border="0" /></a>Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2953165833838717511.post-39642137422697864172009-08-26T13:46:00.000-07:002009-08-26T13:52:16.048-07:00Something Great<a href="http://www.pmdaportraitsoflove.com/"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 192px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3M8w_SZV12EgXls_yC6jKQVFHRgt1w1PeO0MKUID_yL5doLXS0n3ecb_yZl22nCyR3UGXoyNyAzBOuHelO2Mgrq2OBPzR_4NZO9Y5Ohux1C7ai6jW5VkGQB-fQ3Rj28oScq2rIuuh7nU/s200/logo.png" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374377816424830162" border="0" /></a><br />This is a link to an organization that is trying to do something nice for those men and women in uniform that are currently overseas. I hope that if you know any one in the military you will take a moment to look at this website.<br /><a href="http://www.pmdaportraitsoflove.com/">Portraits of Love</a>Richmond Camerahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01853808470687214585noreply@blogger.com0